A Recent Visit to Warsaw
I have been visiting Poland once or twice a year for the last couple of decades. As an American, it has been an interesting journey of getting to know a new culture- which I now love as a second home. I speak only very rudimentary Polish (I can order two large beers with no problem!), but in the last 20 years, Poland has become a much easier place for non-Polish speakers. Given that I have spent so much time here — and I am here as I write this post- I will give my top observations/recommendations for anyone choosing to visit. In no particular order:
- Although the exchange rate fluctuates, Poland is way cheaper than the US. We just went out for a very hearty and tasty lunch for three people, which cost about $10 US. A total bargain. Not everything is cheaper here (like electronics are about the same price as in the US)- but definitely going out is far, far cheaper. Makes it a fun and easy place to vacation!
- The food is awesome- and although now in Warsaw you can find sushi, Thai, Indian, Chinese, Italian and so many more restaurants (many of which are really good!) — why would you do that when there is so much of Polish cuisine to explore? I really like duck and wild boar which are prevalent on menus. The best thing ever though is something called smalec (pronounced smah-litz). It is a spread for bread made of lard and bacon bits and usually some caramelized onions. Yum!
- With things being cheaper, what that also means is that while you are here, it is a great time run errands- like getting a watch band adjusted ($4), or getting preventative medical care done ($30 for a walk-in clinic for an ultrasound). The skill level of artisans and other technical people here is high, so the quality of products and services is also generally excellent.
4. Although Warsaw is not known to be as beautiful architecturally as Krakow- given that Warsaw was basically leveled during the war- there are still some really lovely places- and more and more every year. Everyone who has been here knows Old Town and also “Nowy Swiat” — a fancy shopping and dining place, sort of like 5th Avenue in New York. There are some new amazing places though, including a beautiful river walk on the Vistula. We visited the library at the Warsaw University on this visit, which was really one of the most amazing buildings I have ever seen. It is very modern with a glass and green copper facade- but it is covered in plants and on the top has a massive garden complex. It has to be seen to really appreciate how incredible it is- I really felt like I was stepping into the future of urban architecture- and it is remarkable. For example, we were walking in this beautiful field with flowers and plants- and I noticed a few metal protrusions and realized they were the HVAC system for the building — but it felt as though we were in the country.
5. I am not a museum person, but even I really find the Warsaw Uprising Museum to be an incredibly moving and interesting place. This part of Polish history is generally not known in the US to the extent that it should be, and it is an incredible testimony to the bravery — and hardship suffered- by the Polish people in World War II. All around Poland there are reminders of how devastated Poland was by both the German and Russian armies throughout their history, and it underscores why there is so much national pride here. There was a lot sacrificed, and people here know that having a country not occupied by foreign invaders is a precious and tenuous thing. There are other terrific museums in Warsaw- like the Science Museum which my son loves. For art lovers there is also a lot here. Just not so much my thing.
6. Polish people get a bad rap for not being as smiley as people in the US. Maybe because I live in New York City, that doesn’t really bother me too much. People here are actually super friendly and really nice and helpful. Also more and more people- and almost all young people- speak pretty good english and are really willing to help you out. Yes, people push here more- and cut in line- in ways that you wouldn’t see in the US — but what fun would it be if it were just like home?
7. Poland is an unapologetically Catholic country. As an unapologetic Catholic myself, I love to explore the churches and other shrines and beautiful ways in which they honor their faith. Churches are packed on days that aren’t just Easter and Christmas- people take it really seriously here. When I first started coming to Poland I was not Catholic and I still really enjoyed the beauty of the churches, and really recommend taking the time to see them if you come here.
8. The Polish countryside is really lovely. The mountains of Zakopane, the lakes in the Masurian district, and the pastoral landscapes in Bialystock are all places that I have really enjoyed. I find that when most Americans vacation in Europe they stick to the cities, but I think that is a mistake. The warmth of the people, the beautiful vistas and the wonderful rustic food in the rural areas make them worth exploring.
9. Polish public transportation is super easy and affordable- making it possible to go from the city to the country- or just travel within the cities. I definitely wouldn’t recommend renting a car here- traffic fatalities are way more common here than in the US. Plus, why bother driving when there is a bus or train that can take you wherever you need to go? If you do travel from Warsaw to Krakow, my #1 favorite place to visit in Krakow is the Wielieczka Salt Mines. It is one of the coolest things you will ever see- I promise!
10. One really wonderful custom in Poland is that people visit cemeteries very regularly, to go to their loved ones graves. The result is that when you go to a cemetery it isn’t creepy and abandoned, it is full of people, flowers, candles and prayers for the dearly departed. I think it is so nice to go and regularly remember your ancestors and family members- and somehow makes death feel much more a natural part of life.
In many ways life in Poland has become just like life in any developed country- everyone is on their cell phone all the time, young people are covered in tattoos, the same movies and tv shows air- the world is just smaller than it used to be. But in other ways life here in Poland remains simpler- housing tends to be much smaller than in the US, people still earn much less on average, so there is less of a consumerism type mentality, and there is more of a family orientation (small children are still often cared for by a grandmother, and fewer elderly people are in nursing homes). The Warsaw skyline is sprouting new high rise buildings seemingly daily, and the high quality of the education here means that there are more high skilled jobs here than ever before. I am sure that the country will continue to evolve, and I look forward to continuing to visit and enjoy the old, and the new, of Poland!
